DuckyD wrote:I pulled the stock oil pressure sending unit and installed my Greddy sending unit, then removed the oil pressure light in the gauge cluster.I didn't realize the Greddy sensor was small enough for that. I bet he has an Autometer unit, and those are too large to thread straight into the stock location (aside from the wrong thread pitch). They hit the oil filter before they can be threaded in. OP, I used a brass adapter threaded into the stock oil sensor location, mounted my sensor on top, and reinstalled the stock sensor as well.
We need to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the port for the sender or the mechanical gauge on the unit. Test for high pressure and turn the engine off as soon as the pressure rises above 80 psi.I believe that we will find the pressure is much higher or we are working with the wrong filter. We carry SR20DET, KA24DE, RB Series, and CA18 Parts for your Nissan 240sx/Silvia. From Coilovers to Body Kits and Wheels to Race Prep parts, we are your one-stop source for the Nissan 240sx. Give us a call or drop us an email. Maintenance & Repair - low oil pressure still - i been noticing on level. Like they do with the sr20's and can anyone think of what else i should check thanks. How it is when you get a new car. Is the Oil pressure sender hard to replace, wheres it located? Thanks for all the input. Put a manual gauge on it and started cold.
I now have a NISsport adapter (similiar to the one you posted, but looks nicer IMO and is made out of better material) that I need to install. The brass adapter can break/crack over time due to the heat and vibrations from the motor. I made a how-to thread about this yrs back, it's in the tech section. I need to update it though. Modified by homeslicej2 at 10:14 AM 4/13/2010. Almost heaven wrote:I had a pressure sender brass fitting break off. Fortunately, it broke off in a brass neck extension i used to push the sender out far enough so that it did not interfere with my spin-on remote mount plate (which also leaked).
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I am now puttin gon an OBX adapter housing in place of the spin-on remote plate, but am again using a brass extenstion for the pressure sender. Thinking about using that Club RSX SS adapter now. Thanks for the info. Here's my new set up with OBX housing (only using one crush washer on each fitting though). [Finally got picture loaded]. Also had leak trouble with tape on brass fittings, and had mixed bspt and npt fittings.
Got that fixed: got new brass fittings with npt thread, and mounted the pressure sender on the bulkhead; sorry, pics of THAT to follow. Almost heaven wrote:I had a pressure sender brass fitting break off. Fortunately, it broke off in a brass neck extension i used to push the sender out far enough so that it did not interfere with my spin-on remote mount plate (which also leaked). I am now puttin gon an OBX adapter housing in place of the spin-on remote plate, but am again using a brass extenstion for the pressure sender. Thinking about using that Club RSX SS adapter now.
Thanks for the info. Here's my new set up with OBX housing (only using one crush washer on each fitting though). [Finally got picture loaded]. Also had leak trouble with tape on brass fittings, and had mixed bspt and npt fittings. Got that fixed: got new brass fittings with npt thread, and mounted the pressure sender on the bulkhead; sorry, pics of THAT to follow. Oil sender on the OBX housing kept leaking and was hard to get at (as you all know), so I remoted mounted it to the firewall.
Problem solved. Not real pretty, but good enough to get me running for the season again (I hope. Now have some fuel tank issues). Homeslicej2 wrote:No orange FRAM filters please.
Those things are horrible filters. Search online for comparsions, cut opens, etc. They are not even decent filters. Use Purolator PureOne, Mobil 1, WIX, K&N, OEM (search bc the OEM's come in white or light blue casings for the SR's and one is good, the other is not, and I can't remember which), etc., but not an orange FRAM. Btw, why do you have your fuel filter & oil filter mounted up high like that? Thanks for the advice.
I just wanted to get a honking big one, and the oragne fram was the biggest i could find. I'll get a good one now. I mounted the filters high to get them out of the way. Does it matter?
![S14 sr20det oil filter S14 sr20det oil filter](http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7/0/8/0/webimg/185411171_tp.jpg)
I was kinda of curious about something. Since i have a Forward Facing Oil Filter Housing that only has one sensor port on it and a aftermarket oil pressure gauge, my factory oil pressure gauge doesnt work or do anything. I was wondering if there was any way to wire something else up to it or use it some other way.
Install Oil Pressure Gauge Sr20det Fsm S13
Yes i know i can get a fitting to install the sending unit for both gauges,but i think it would be much cooler and more useful if there was a way to wire it up for something else. Maybe some kind of temp gauge, knock gauge or anything really. Anyone ever tried this before or even ever tossed the idea around? Then you have a dead needle gauge on the dash, which is definitely what i didn't want to have. Also, that's where those wires go to, the needle gauge.
So if you wanted to use that wiring for something else, in the engine bay its easy to get to, but the other end in the cabin is not so easy to get to. Flatout no cd crack download. I don't have the big mushroom for the idiot light, but left unhooked, that doesn't light up, so I'm ok with that.
![Sr20det Sr20det](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/srymQi5WaJQ/hqdefault.jpg)
Depending what kind of aftermarket gauge setup you use, the gauge can be programmed to flash under a certain oil pressure. My MTX-D gauge is that example. So I invented this setup, where this tee keeps the factory needle gauge working: Then an SS line up to a distribution block that houses the oil pressure and temp sensors for the MTX-D, and out of that dist.block for the turbo feed: And new 'idiot light' can be programmed to flash under a certain psi, where'd you have to see how yours is at idle, but I know mine now, and I'll program my gauge to flash at 8psi (the yellow digit value on the gauge is the pressure, so that flashes, not the surround). That particular one is 303 stainless steel: I was kinda concerned with how it sits when it was sitting on the stand, but now that the motor's in the car, not so much, here's why: • From the passenger side, its protected from debris by the downpipe • From the driver's side, its protected from debris by the splash guards • From underneath, it will be protected by the north/south bar of the 3 piece crossmember (not yet installed), which will run DIRECTLY under it.